Відео

What if I have budget constraint, therefore I want to choose between the 50 or 85, which one should I go with? Pls advise. TIA

Excellent video. I have replaced skys in the past but but have just given me a couple of very good tips that will definitely help make my skys look more realistic.

Simple and right to the point

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Can you do this in lightroom nowadays?

Intersting choice. Almost every pro I've talked to or read advice from on all the photography forums, don't pair 50mm and 85mm lenses. They usually pair 24mm and 50mm together. If it works for you, then it's the right choice.

dalle 2 does not accept new users anymore

Focal length heavily depends on one's shooting style, I never care for 50mm for any kind of application, Portrait, landscape.....

Title is misleading. The choice is only from the viewpoint of a primarily portrait photographer. Even then, many would select a 35 1.4 instead of the 50 as a more versatile combination.

i use the 16-35 f/2.8 L and 85mm f/1.8 on a aps-c and it covers 95% on my work

Agree with you on the focal length, but, I think you got it the wrong brand selection , much better to have the Sony GM 50 1.4 + Sigma 85 1.4. The Sigma 50 is heavy and the Sony 85 is not a good performer , due for a total upgrade now

Please give me a 85 mm lens😔

My current favorite is the Tamron 18-400mm for travel, wildlife, and general photography. I can use it on my Nikon D7500 and Z7 II with the FTZ adapter. That would be my only lens, but I took a 2nd lens, it would be the Tamorn 10-24mm for landscapes and architectural photos. I am an amateur. If I were a pro, I'd invest in better glass. I'm not too concerned with bokeh or low light performance since most of my shots are during daytime and I have a steady hand.

The "human vision" is related to the distance from the subject. Not the focal length.

I am starting with mirrorless world with A7C ii + 50mm 1.4 GM

35mm f1.4 85mm f1.4 and I'm a happy camper

Зачем обрабатывать дерьмовые фото?

How you edit your photos? I really like the colours and sharpness.

I shoot mainly events. And by events I don't mean weddings. Among the most common events I shoot are dog agility and rally obedience, and (human) dance. I have an 85 1.4 but it doesn't get much use at these events. I'm more likely to use a 24-70 2.8 or a 70-200 2.8. There are lots of kinds of photography. Not everyone shoots a lot of portraits and landscapes. I can't remember the last time I used a 50 1.4.

Your video is excellent. It provides very helpful information for someone who is starting out. Thank you for including images for reference.

since AP getting hard to crack, im just into canva. lol

I have the 24mm 1.4 GM and 85mm 1.8 and I recently bought the 16-35 pz F4 with my new ZV-E1 which I’m using as « a no-compromise GoPro ». But I’m conscious that a 50mm GM is missing in my set. Not a priority at this time as I’m mainly shooting and filming outdoor where I need wider angles.

Very good overview. Thanks a lot

Imagine painter artists discussing paint tools, paint brushes and paint producers, with each other, like amateur photografers are doing. The creativity is not in the photo gears.

Could I use this same method for saving for printing? Thanks in advance

sigma 28 70 2.8 fullframe in apsc is the best unique lense for all

Dude, Fantastic video and explanation.

Thank you my friend. Your channel is the best. Beautiful work and generosity. F

Do you use nd filters ?

What picture profile do you shoot photos in ?

Bro your videos are so good and your photography is top shelf, I see some comments trying to challenge what your teaching never mind them, lots of us are here to learn and have no issues whatsoever

I fully agree about prime lenses. But 50 mm and 85 mm are too close to each other. I personnaly use 3 lenses but not all together (I take with me either 2 lenses or only 1 versatile lens). For landscape : A wide angle needs to be sharp, no flare, nice sunstar, no subject separation needed. Tamron 24 mm F/2.8 is the perfect budget lens. Sony 20 mm F/1.8 G is needed only if focus on astrophotography (wider aperture) or architecture (wider angle and less distorsion). For portrait : A king's bokeh is needed for professionnal looking photos. Samyang 85 mm F/1.4 AF version 1 aspherical is amazing, very close to the Sony GM for a third of the price. For general purpose each time I take only one litle lens with me : Samyang 45 mm F/1.8 is incredibly light and versatile, even closer to human eye focal than a 50 mm, great bokeh.

Some people use 35 and 85mm or APS-C 23 and 56mm. 😮

35+85 or 24-70 and 70-200..but if you are a wildlife shooter ….or a landscape shooter ..or a macro shooter ….all are different..your use case is focused on people…

Would you recommend FF lens for crop sensor apsc camera set up?

When I can only take two lenses, I usually take a 35mm and an 85mm. I prefer the 85 over the 50 for headshots, and having a 35 gives me an easier time when I want to include some of the environment with the subject. 35mm has been a street photography classic, because it's wide enough to put your subject into the context of its surroundings, without losing it in the background. Recently was shooting in a museum, and my 35mm f/1.4's FOV made it easier to shoot larger works without having to stand halfway across the gallery, and the f/1.4 made it easier to deal with crappy museum lighting.

35 is 52 maybe on crop, here is error on 8:01

Lens preference is a bit of a personal thing but definitely good idea to settle on two for use 90+% of the time, although I don't think they can be the same two for every kind of occasion (e.g., tight spaces vs great outdoors). Also, a second camera body makes life so much easier; changing lenses sucks, especially at events.

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Exactly what I've had in my bag since the turn of the century. Currently I´m using a Sigma L mount 24~70/2.8 and a Lumix 50/1.8.

If I only had those two lenses I would loose so much of my work, sports photographers would be inside the sports fields, wildlife photographers would get eaten and so forth... just a click bait title...

Great vid thanks! Subbed.

10x sharper? Sharper gives 3D pop? Aperture defines 3D? When a lens doesn’t transmit this micro contrasts, this can’t be added afterwards. Regular contrast can be added afterwards! Low element count lenses are giving good micro contrast, not ultra modern lenses. Ultra sharp, there is no model that wants to see that because every pore will be seen. In general a lot nonsense is said in this video.

As for "human eye", I heard it's not 50mm is human vision, but a distance to object about 5m/15ft, and focus length is more about the required angle of view

THANK YOU!!!

Thank you!

I use a zoom nikon 24-70mm and a 70-200mm, both at f2.8. This can do almost everything. Perfect for the job. Group photo and events. I try sometimes to stay on a fix value and move myself more. As you say, a great way to improv your skill.

your pairing lacks wide angle capabilities and long reach. While a nice set (not the best I think) for portraits, I strongly disagree this is the best setup "across multiple genres" as you state in the description.

have you use flashlight for the portrait fotos ? very nice video...

Your editing style is very unnatural. It looks like AI generated images. The young generation of photographers will probably take it as a compliment, but it really isn't. If you're going to over-edit your photos to that extend, it doesn't really matter what lens you use as 80% of the image is created in post...